The Comeback: Legendary Vancouver chef Rob Feenie is gearing up to open a new restaurant

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After the spectacular loss of the restaurant he founded in 1995 at the age of 29 in 2007, Rob Feenie is ready to open another one.

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Anyone dazzled by the meal at the disappeared but not forgotten restaurant Lumiere and his laidback sidekick Feenie’s will remember his dramatic ousting by a business associate. He says he’s over it. It is past. He tries not to talk about it.

Lumiere had redefined fine dining in Vancouver and was unparalleled in its, well, stunning aesthetic and controlled flavors. It later closed in 2011, despite the involvement of New York batsman Daniel Boulud.

On the cusp of yet another attempt at directing his own show, it was time to meet up with Feenie.

Over the years he was the “food concept architect” at the Cactus Club chain, where he and his team propelled food to the forefront of Vancouver’s competitive casual fine dining scene. It was hard leaving his “family,” he said, but he did it in June. From a macro perspective, there was a silver lining to its earlier crash and burn. The 2008 recession hit shortly after his departure, sabotaging expense-reporting guests and destination dining experiences. He’s gained respect for the business end of things. And he’s matured.

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“The couple of years I wanted to be in the Cactus Club turned into 15,” he says. “Working in a company with 4,000 employees, I learned very quickly.”

Not just about business, but apparently about humility and perspective.

“I have learned that it is important to be humble, hungry, wise and to recognize and respect your people. You can’t get anywhere without them. I was demanding, and I still am demanding, but I want to make sure I treat people with the utmost respect, in a fun environment that they enjoy and don’t feel like they’re being watched all the time,” he says. “I know perfect is not possible. But excellence is.”

His new restaurant will open sometime next year, but he doesn’t have a name for it yet.

“It will be part of my name. Feenies 1.0? Rob Feenies?” he asks rhetorically.

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And he doesn’t know where it will end up.

“It’s the million dollar question. Most people prefer the West Side. It could also be out here where I live in White Rock. The city is so diverse these days, it could be anywhere.”

Wherever the dining room will have the clean, economical lines of Lumiere. The food will have similarly simple, clean, bright flavors with French, Japanese, Italian, and Southeast Asian influences.

“I’ll do some different things and some things that people will be familiar with and I’ll listen to what customers want, but my philosophy hasn’t changed. I don’t want to reveal my concept just yet. I still want people to be surprised.”

From Instagram posts of dishes he’s tested, it seems Lumiere’s ethereal food, but more casual. These included Branzino filet with chanterelles, cauliflower puree and Verde sauce, Chilliwack rack of lamb with pressed potato fudge, spinach mousse, cippolini onions and lamb jus, and green pea and mascarpone ravioli with grilled scallops and truffle beurre blanc.

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“I’ve been doing this for a long time. I know that putting in long hours is difficult for relationships,” he says.

After two marriages, he is now in a relationship with Amber Raynier, a “foodie”.

“You don’t have to work 14, 15 hours. You need to be balanced and take care of yourself and your mental health. I need people who feel comfortable,” he says.

He also learned to listen. In an establishment like the Cactus Club, “there are a lot more opinions – and that makes you a better cook.”

Also, these are nervous times for restaurants, with staff shortages, supply chain muck-ups, inflation and a bear market slowing destination food. And of course, since his time at Lumiere, there have been some pretty hot chefs cooking amazing food. This includes JC Poirier, who once cooked for Feenie.

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To avoid the mistakes of the past, Feenie has trusted advisors standing behind him, including Bob Matheson, a partner at accounting firm DMCL and a restaurant industry veteran, and Jim Stewart, former vice president and now an advisor at Cactus Club, who happens to be the son of former Vancouver Police Chief Bob Stewart.

He is very wary of investors, whether groups or individuals.

“After the David Sidoo scenario, I want to make sure it’s a good choice. I want people to support me,” he says of his disastrous previous relationship.

“Right now I’m looking for a good front line general manager and a solid co-leader to work with me. The restaurant business is not easy now.”

His children, Devon, 18, Jordan, 17, and Brooklyn, 14, are definitely a support force. Devon is currently the line chef at the Cactus Club.

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“They all cook and are quite adept at food,” he says. “You want to get involved in some way. you would love it. None of them have really had a chance to be there before and I think they’re more excited than me,” he says, adding that they’re committed to a Michelin star. Or two, depending on where he takes it.

“If that happens to me, I will be forever grateful. I’ve dreamed of being a part of it, but I’ll be the first to congratulate everyone else. I’m happy that Canada is getting recognition. It shows talent and it’s a good thing for all of us. Many restaurants have long since earned this. But yes, it will streamline the kitchens for sure. People will want to execute more consistently.”

Feenie is thankful the passion hasn’t let up and seems to have a deep drive. He spent his childhood life pursuing his dream of becoming a professional ice hockey player.

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“I played with (former Vancouver Canuck) Cliff Ronning at Burnaby. I tried and tried and tried and couldn’t do it,” he says.

He then turned to cooking, thanks to an alchemy born of his mother’s kitchen, his aunt’s cherry orchard, childhood memories of food from a neighbor’s Japanese kitchen, and a trip to Sweden as a 16-year-old.

“I love cooking, but even more I love the satisfaction of making people happy,” he summarizes.

There’s no shortage of people waiting for those “lucky” moments, judging by the number of strangers who approach him when he’s outside excited to support his next adventure.

SIDE DISHES

On August 21st, the BC Chapter of Les Dames d’Escoffier is hosting a fundraiser for women in hospitality and food banks BC who will receive 50 percent of the proceeds.

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It’s so easy and fun to purchase a picnic for two at participating restaurants in Vancouver, Penticton and Kelowna and enjoy a picnic in the sun with a main course, two sides, dessert and wine, beer or cider depending on the venue .

Participating restaurants include L’Abattoir, Popina, Provence Marinaside, Published on Main, Fresh Ideas Start Here, Vij’s and others.

“Our industry has worked hard to stay strong over the past few years and now we want to show our support,” said Stephanie Jaeger, Escoffier board spokeswoman. “Let’s toast and picnic for a good cause by supporting grants for women, food insecurity and the hospitality industry we couldn’t live without.”

Tickets can be purchased in advance via lesdames.ca/picnic-and-bubbles. Pickup is between 3:00 PM and 5:00 PM at the restaurants.

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